Tuesday 24 January 2012

The Three Crowns - Stoke Newington

I've eaten a lot of roast dinners in London, and more often than not they're a bit disappointing. There is an awful lot that can go wrong with a roast when you're cooking for four people, let alone a fully booked restaurant, but I'm still surprised by how difficult it is to find somewhere which can serve up a decent Sunday lunch for less than £20. Thankfully, I've discovered the Three Crowns on Church Street who will pile your plate with excellent food for just £13.95.


We started off with potted crab, served with lightly toasted white bread for dipping and a well dressed salad. The capers dotted on top cut through the rich crab meat perfectly and the bread was soft enough to soak up the devilishly good browned butter. Having a starter before a massive roast was certainly unnecessary, but well worth it.


I always opt for roast beef; I love lamb, but the lure of horseradish and Yorkshire pudding is just too great. Two thick slices of slightly pink beef were served with crispy roast potatoes, root vegetable mash, braised red cabbage, Yorkshire pudding and lashings of gravy. There were no greens on the plate, so you can't even pretend it's healthy, but it sure was delicious. I love red cabbage and after my dad outlawed it at Christmas I was very pleased to finally get my fix. I think the chef had been a little over zealous with the five spice and salt, but I enjoyed it anyway. The Yorkshire's were crispy on the outside, but soft and eggy on the inside whilst the gravy was rich and thick. It was a great meal, washed down with a glass of the excellent house red before heading home for an afternoon nap. Rock and roll.


My only complaint is with the horseradish they serve. I like my horseradish HOT and unfortunately their creme fraiche with freshly grated horseradish doesn't quite hit the spot. Aside from this, it's a reliable option for a tasty Sunday lunch. The service is always speedy and friendly, they were playing some great fifties tunes and they have a few sofas you can lounge on post-roast if you're in the mood.


Three Crowns on Urbanspoon

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